New Routes – West Cornwall – North – Vol 1

Michael Dickinson Buttress

Submitted by : Colin Knowles
Crag : Halldrine Cove
Date of ascent : 30/05/2015
Route name : Down, Down, Down
Length/grade/stars : 10m Mod
Climbers : Colin Knowles (solo)
Start location:
On Michael Dickinson buttress which is the hidden buttress at the southern end of the cove. There are two descent routes – one from the left (facing in) which involves dropping down onto a prominent block above a tiny inlet and traversing rightwards, and the other the route Down, Down, Down

Pitch descriptions:
From a large pedestal above high tide climb diagonally leftwards up a series of short easy corners. This one of the two descent routes so is normally down-climbed.

Additional info:
See Topo 0 left

Comment by Pete Greening:
The new PDF submitted by Colin Knowles – I climbed all the routes listed (plus a couple of others) during my lunch breaks back in April/May 2009 when working for a local outdoor centre that use the main crag for their climbing day. All were soloed onsight. Never thought to claim them. The routes may have been climbed before my ascents too. That said, good topo and grades about right.

Aireflow

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres below and left of Night Flight near the base of a ramp below a rounded slab and just above the main sea level ledges.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rounded slab via the flakes to a ledge. Continue up the bulging narrow buttress directly above on amazing holds. Thread belay, a descent down the ramp on the right (facing in) leads to the main area.

Yellow Fever

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Airport.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Step off a sloping rock and climb the short steep wall to gain the ledge above the scoop of Airport. Move rightwards up flakes, then left to a disappointingly blunt spike; before escaping left to a finish up the cracks of Airport.

Blackfeet

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and right of The Long Voyage Home.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make two awkward mantelshelves up the right wall of the narrow zawn. Continue up the slanting chimney for 2 metres, before gaining the rib on the right with relief!

Genghis

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres right of Blackfeet on a higher level at the right edge of a black bulging buttress. A black and white vein cuts rightwards across a golden wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow the vein briskly from left-to-right and finish up the nose.

Reuben’s Slabs

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Fifty metres right of Genghis is a dark buttress with two slabs offset by a roof; start below the lower slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the lower slab rightwards, step left and finish up the crack in the upper slab.

Tiny Tiers

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Left (north) of the descent gully to the start of Right Angle, a shelving series of huge slabs leads to a fine wall after 170 metres, divided into two tiers by a sloping terrace. The climbs so far are on the lower tier. Start just above high tide level at a right-trending set of holds.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the large, but smooth holds rightwards to the terrace.
Descent: by abseil.

Launch Off

Length/grade/stars: 14m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Tiny Tiers at a thin crack in a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the thin crack to a good ledge. Follow the right-slanting holds for 4 metres and finish direct.

Sunset Strip

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Four metres right of Launch Off, a series of ledges lead to a short corner.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the ledges to the corner, move up and leftwards across the wall to gain and climb a flared flake crack.

Taken in Vein

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start at the right end of the large ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Church Window etc.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain a projecting ledge out on the right by an interesting move. Continue up the red and black vein to a steep finish.

Aeolian

Length/grade/stars: 27m HVS

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Hayloft Gully on a large ramp beneath two flakes on the steep wall 8 metres above.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 17m 5a Climb short walls to a ledge below the flakes. Launch up the larger right-hand flake to delicate and poorly-protected moves to reach the break. Move left slightly and continue up the slab and easier ground to a belay beneath the upper slab
2. 10m 4c Climb the rib of the slab for 4 metres and finish direct up the narrow runnel.

Epicurean

Length/grade/stars: 9m VS

Start location:

Start at the top of pitch 1 of Aeolian, below a thin hairline crack leading up the red, bald slab on the upper slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the delectable crack. Clean and sparkling, must have been done many times, if it has it’s already a classic!

Top o’ the Morning

Date of ascent: 13/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 2 metres LEFT of Knight Move.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the pleasant shallow groove in the face of a slabby pillar, and continue to a ledge on the left below the upper slab. Make a delicate step up and continue just left of the edge to the top.

The Ribbon

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Thirty metres around and right of Reuben’s Slabs on the opposite side of the buttress is a brown, easy-angled rib just right of a huge square block; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the rib daintily, when the wide cracks are reached the difficulties diminish.

Brittles

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Fifty metres to the right (seaward) of The Ribbon is a large buttress whose summit formation resembles a double crashing wave. Start at the right-hand side of its dark north-facing wall in a tidal trench at a slabby corner.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a thin crack in the slab just right of the corner to a rake. Finish up the steep corner above. For added excitement, pull over the wave formation!

Mar Might

Length/grade/stars: 15m VD

Start location:

One hundred and forty metres east of the shady wall containing Lunar Eclipse etc and across the true Halldrine Cove are a series of block walls and slabs separated by a trough into a landward wall and pretend island (O S Ref 417 372). The first 3 routes however are on an attractive domed slab 40 metres to the left (facing in). Start on a flat ledge with three drilled holes below the centre of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a short corner and an intermittent crack up the blunt rib on the left.

Marmaduke

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Mar Might.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the black seam up leftwards and finish up the ramp.

Marmalade

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Marmaduke.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the black crack leftwards and move right onto a ledge. Climb the short black corner, overlap and bubbly slab to the top.

Baby Fish Rib

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

On the left-hand side (facing in) of the landward wall a blunt rib rises from a beautiful rock pool in the trough. Access to the landward wall is by abseil or various down-climbs. Start at the bottom of a groove to the left (facing in) of the blunt rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Step right and pull onto the rib (splashdown available here!), and continue up the rib to the top.

Vaseline

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Baby Fish Rib below a V-groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain and climb the V-groove, interesting!

No Pain, No Gain

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Vaseline at the right-hand end of the landward wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride across and gain a standing position on a shelf. Follow the crack leftwards and finish up the upper crack. The dark slab immediately left looks benign, but is bold, Frieze (6m VS 4c Clarke 15.3.16).

Thirst

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Nine metres LEFT of Land’s End Long Climb, past several short pillars, the rocks heighten at a recess. Start at the left side of the recess, just right of a wide crack formed by a small pinnacle.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rib and slab and make a tricky finishing move up the headwall. The slab just right and steep corner above give Equals (10m D Clarke 13.3.16).

Full Stop

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Thirst.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb a blunt rib and step left into an overhung niche. Make an awkward move out left and follow the crack/ramp to the top.

Lass-T

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Full Stop.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb fresh rock for 3 metres and gain a projecting ledge on the left. Gain, and finish awkwardly up the open corner.

Darwarnya

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres around and up right of Capillary Cracks below a gritty chimney.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the rib on the right of the chimney, and step left onto a sloping ledge below the prominent groove. Up the groove to a large ledge; from where an exciting traverse right and pull up gain the top.

Mufti

Length/grade/stars: 25m HS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Civvy Route.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the problem arête to a ledge. Move up and rightwards across Walter’s Chimney to climb a black slab forming its right wall. Continue up the short slab on Letterbox to gain its belay ledge. Re-cross the Chimney and finish up the narrow inset buttress.

Little Red Van

Length/grade/stars: 23m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Letterbox.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a black rib at the entrance to Griptight Gully to a ledge. Follow the slotted wall on the left and move leftwards; before continuing up the ridge to gain the Letterbox belay ledge. From the right end of the ledge follow massive holds up and rightwards to finish awkwardly up a short neb.

Pebble Rebel

Length/grade/stars: 12m VS

Start location:

A mere 10 metres walk landwards from the top of the landward crag (Vaseline etc), gains the top of a black wall above a boulder filled cove. A notable landmark is a rounded pebble boulder below the left side of the wall, start behind this boulder (all tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the thin crack rightwards to an overlap. Use high handholds on the left to gain a large ledge. Walk off or climb the flake on the right.

Pebble Mill

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Pebble Rebel at twin thin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the twin cracks and finish up the right-slanting crack.

Pebble Grist

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Pebble Mill at a higher level.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the faint crack just right of a shallow recess and finish up the two left-hand cracks above.

Three Pebble

Length/grade/stars: 15m VD

Start location:

A further 8 metres landward a fine rib rises in three tiers.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the delectable rib. No belay, so scramble up the grass to block belays 15 metres above. Five metres right a short, rounded rib may prove irresistible; Pueblo (6m S Clarke 22.3.16).

Not So Swell

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres left of Wiggy Wiggy at a slabby rib defining the left edge of a black wall. Just above where the large ledge begins to sweep down seawards, care required in swell conditions!

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slabby rib and the straightforward slab above.

Impermanence

Length/grade/stars:

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Wiggy Wiggy at a short wall and right of a large black slot.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the short wall into a shallow recess. Pull over the bulge, step left and follow the right side of the slab. Climb a steeper wall rightwards and finish awkwardly up a short black corner in the final roof.

Wiggle On

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Impermanence at the short black groove just left of Easy Wigging.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain the groove by an interesting move, and follow the ramp up leftwards, finishing as for Easy Wigging.

Bossy Gran

Date of ascent: 25/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 18m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Crazy Man Michael.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb two successive slabs rightwards to an alcove below a steep wall. Overcome this by using the ribs on the right and foot traverse left. Move up left and gain a foothold on the upper rib and follow this in a splendid position to the top.

Planet of the Apes

Length/grade/stars: 20m S

Start location:

Start as for Guacamole Jeff.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the cracks of Guacamole Jeff to the break, hand traverse right to the thin crack of Monkey’s Lunch. Move up for 2 metres, then foot traverse the blunt flakes rightwards to finish up Hurdy Gurdy Arête.

Kabol

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Dy’ Lun.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the front of the pillar, then follow the undercut flake rightwards to finish up a thin crack.

Additional info:

The name means mixed up (Cornish)!

Clandestine

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres right of the Memorial Plaque and above and behind the wall of Station X is a tower with two cracklines; start below the right-hand crackline which trends slightly rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the crackline with interest, and at the top shelving overhang step down right slightly and gain the ridge by a brisk layback up a short corner.

Sunshine Coach

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 14 metres above and right of Variety Club at a black and white left-trending ramp, just below a parallel, narrow black vein.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up the ramp leftwards to the edge. Step right and follow a shallow groove and rib above to broken ground near the Ridge.

Bossy Boots

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Twelve metres left of Racy Stacy a short wall juts out at a right angle, covered in its lower section by black schorl. Start at a thin crack just right of the left edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the thin crack and the edge above to a large ledge. Gain the higher ledges via the keyhole crack on the right.

Sprayed Back

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start just right of Bossy Boots at the main crack in the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the crack, tricky in places.

Strendel

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Virtual Insanity.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the flake holds steeply rightwards into a dark niche. Finish leftwards up the crack in the slab above.

Porcelain

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Sixty metres to the south of the Main Cliff is an impressive zawn (Zawn Buzz); 50 metres further south on the opposite side of a grassy spur is a small zawn. Tucked away, sunny and sheltered (suggested name, Troika Zawn?). Its location is adjacent to the word ‘step’ on the map on page 202. Approach as for Boulder Two-Step (p 214) but continue down the grassy spur, until easy-angled slabs lead down rightwards (facing out) into the zawn (most tides!). Once familiar, a quicker way is to follow the main path down the valley to its mouth, the zawn lies 70 metres to the right (facing out). The zawn consists of two walls, a brown, slabby south-facing wall and an impending west-facing wall on the right. Start near the left edge of the brown slabby wall on the gently-sloping top of the boulder at the entrance to the zawn.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Traverse left from the boulder to the rib and follow it to a small ledge below a narrow slab. Climb this by its left edge.

Feaince

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start just right of Porcelain at a crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the crack for 2 metres then traverse left to gain the ledge of Porcelain below the narrow slab. Climb this by its right edge.

Troika

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Start as for Feaince.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack to a niche. Step right and finish up the flake crack above and left.

Glazed

Length/grade/stars: 8m VD

Start location:

Fifteen metres left of the top of Porcelain (Troika Zawn) a short wall rises above a broad sloping ramp. Start 12 metres down the ramp in the centre of the wall at a red rock scar (most tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb through the rock scar and continue up the corner.

Cobalt Groove

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of Glazed at a right-angled corner, just right of a grey holdless wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the corner with interest via a small bulge near the top.

Cathay Café

Length/grade/stars: 17m HS

Start location:

Start 8 metres below and left (facing in) of Porcelain at a shallow groove just right of a red wall (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the awkward shallow groove to the bulge, foot traverse left and gain a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack on the right and finish up the arête.

Smoothie

Length/grade/stars: 9m F4+ S0

Start location:

At the level of the sloping ledge on Cathay Café a low promontory juts out seawards. Fifteen metres along the promontory the smooth wall down and left gives an interesting traverse.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse leftwards across the smooth wall, until a harder section just above the undercut leads to better holds at the far edge.

Four to One

Length/grade/stars: 33m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres LEFT of Free Rein at a splayed-out groove with a black slab forming its left side.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove and the left side of the black slab. Continue up a thin flake in the short golden wall on the left and finish up the white chicken-heads in the right flank of Ridge Direct.

They’re Off

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start as for Four to One.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the cracked wall on the right-hand side of the slabby, right bounding rib of the groove of Four to One to a ledge at 6 metres. Continue up the rib and trend leftwards up the slabs to the top.

Rank and File

Date of ascent: 20/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 18m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke, M Freeman, R Grimshaw

Start location:

Start as for Staircase.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left-trending ramp, groove and crack in the left bounding rib of Staircase. Finish up the V-groove of No Name. Barely independent, but neat, elegant climbing!

Additional info:

A team of old-timers, combined ages at least 200!

Two Left Feet

Length/grade/stars: 17m S

Start location:

At the back of the first channel (mentioned in the approach to the mysterious Tower of Babylon) is a tall rectangular buttress with large rockfall scars to its right. Start below the centre of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up leftwards and follow the left edge to ledges at the summit. Descent: scramble up for 8 metres, then descend broken rocks 15 metres to he right (facing in).

Kalypso

Length/grade/stars:

Start location:

Twelve metres left of Two Left Feet is a short, steep south west facing wall above a trench, with twin cracks in its centre and a blunt rib capped by a black slab on its right. Start below the blunt rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the blunt rib and black slab with interest.

Additional info:

A further 20 metres left (facing in) is another channel which contains a dark tower, could this be the Tower of Babylon?

Hispaniola

Length/grade/stars: 8m S1 F5

Start location:

On the far (landward) side of the greasy channel dividing the cliff; descend a cleft and slab to barnacle level (Mod!). Just right (facing in) an attractive slabby groove slants up a blunt rib; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the slabby groove for 4 metres to a holdless bulge. Pull delicately around rightwards onto the slabby wall and gain the top.

Tortuga

Length/grade/stars: 11m S1 F4

Start location:

Start as for Hispaniola.

Pitch descriptions:

From the base of the slabby groove, step around rightwards onto the slabby wall at the level of small undercuts. Descend to a small ledge (mid tide and below and calm seas!); before moving up rightwards for 3 metres to gain a brown wall, up this on good holds to the top. From the foot of the brown wall, the right-slanting flake is very pleasant; Plunder (14m S1 F4 Clarke 14.5.16).

Crossbones

Length/grade/stars: 30m S1 F5

Start location:

Approach as for Tortuga to the brown wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Continue the rightwards traverse along a convenient seam for the feet to reach an alcove with a black right wall. Pull up onto a higher ledge on the right and continue to where the traverse-line ends at a smooth groove. Move up onto the grey rock on the right via a thin flake, step up and traverse right for 3 metres until a short dark wall with good holds enables the top to be gained.

Bootleg

Length/grade/stars: 10m VS

Start location:

From the foot of Bossy Boots (CC Website) walk down the shelving ledge on the left for 15 metres (mid tide and below and calm seas!), to below a left-trending black vein.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the black vein, the lower half is fingery and unprotected!

Scallops

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Descend a glacis below Poor House to barnacle level in a channel.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the face above and right, finishing leftwards.

Lobster Rock

Length/grade/stars: 8m Mod

Start location:

Start 5 metres right of Raw Prawn, above the right end of the rock pool at a left-trending ramp.

Pitch descriptions:

The ramp and flake above gives a pleasant little outing!

Ride Clear of Diablo

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of The Devil’s Been Busy.

Pitch descriptions:

Take a slightly left-to-right line up the brown wall and meander up the steeper rock above.

Additional info:

Spindle and Bobbin repeated, both thought to be VD!

Iron Pyrites

Date of ascent: 16/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 45m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Double Take.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 21m 4a Follow the leftward traverse of Double Take for 6 metres; before taking the buttress above via the thin cracks just right of its edge. Belay below the corner on the left which forms p2 of Double Take.
2. 24m 4b Climb the wall left of the corner passing a small triangular niche to exit up the edge. Move around to the right and climb the short brown wall to broken ground and the top.

Primary Scare Trust

Date of ascent: 17/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

The broad grassy gully used on the approach to Rip Tide Wall opens out at its base to form a zawn; with a high impending wall forming its right (facing out) side. Access (most tides) is by down-climbing (D) the disjointed slabby ribs, gained from the broken ledges. An abseil may be preferable!
Below the high impending wall at its seaward end is a pinnacle, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Scramble to the summit of the pinnacle. Take a deep breath and stride across onto the main wall and move up to a niche just above. Traverse left for 3 metres to easier-angled rock and amble up grooves to gain the broken ledges.

Additional info:

For the Rip Tide Wall approach in the new book the phrase ‘follow a very broad grassy gully down left to some broken ledges’ should be grassy gully down right (facing out) to some broken ledges!

Slopersgrope

Date of ascent: 20/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m VD
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 4 metres left of Um at a right-sloping ramp.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the ramp and short corner to the bulge. Avoid this by moving left to a finish up a slabby rib.

Additional info:

Um repeated, grade confirmed!

Grampus

Date of ascent: 22/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 13m D
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for Ordinary Route. A ramp slants up leftwards below the steep wall with diagonal cracklines; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the left edge of the ramp to its top, step left and climb the wall on pockets. Just left a slabby wall with a central crack juts out at right-angles. The slotted wall immediately left of the crack is a delight; Les Adieux (7m D Clarke 22.5.16). The left edge of the wall via the shallow yellow scoop is blanker, but equally delightful; Serenata (8m VD Clarke 22.5.16).

Lang Lum Reek

Length/grade/stars: 20m S

Start location:

Three metres LEFT of Cheddar is a kinked, white-stained groove. A further 6 metres left is an open groove just right of a flat wall with diagonal cracks. Start below the open groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the groove and move left into a niche at 6 metres. Step right and follow the right-hand version of the groove to a ledge. Finish up the golden slab on the left.

Vino Bianco

Length/grade/stars: 22m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Lang Lum Reek below the kinked, white-stained groove, gained via ledges to its left.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the kinked groove and finish up the twin cracks in the shallow chimney above. Scramble out, first right, then leftwards!

Bling Crack

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Start as for Diamond Flake.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride across and climb the central crack, which becomes progressively trickier.

Phantom Suns

Length/grade/stars: 10m HVS

Start location:

Thirty metres right (facing out) of the oblong block at the top of Bling Crack is an attractive slabby wall forming the right side of a small zawn. The lower half of the wall is dark greenstone, whilst the upper half is granite. Belay in a short corner on a large ledge system at the right end of the slabby wall, well above sea level.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Step left onto the dark rock and move up into a shallow corner in the granite. Make tenuous moves around leftwards to gain a fine spike in the middle of the slabby wall. Stand on the spike and teeter for the top.

Jutland 100

Date of ascent:
Length/grade/stars: 14m S2 F5+
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for One Big Echo, but continue down the cliff edge to within 6 metres of the end of the rock. Descend an open groove on the right (facing out) to reach a rounded ledge at barnacle level.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb leftwards (facing in) across a pocketed wall, descend slightly and pull leftwards into a niche below a left-slanting crack. Follow this crack for 5 metres, then pull out rightwards to easier rock and the starting platform of One Big Echo.

Klondyke

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

The promontory containing Twinkletoes etc has on its left (facing out) side a golden slab, riven by left-to-right rising diagonal cracks above a shallow gully. Start at high tide level on a small ledge near the base of the shallow gully; gained by devious scrambles or abseil.

Pitch descriptions:

Step left above a small niche and follow the wide diagonal cracks to a ledge. Pull up a steeper wall and finish up the V-groove to reach the crest of the promontory. Starting at the same place, the lower set of diagonal cracks leading to a prominent landward notch gives; Gold Rush (25m VD Clarke 6.6.16).

Kirsch

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres above and right of Klondyke where the shallow gully flattens out at a large ledge, and below a short hairline crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the hairline crack and its continuation; before finishing up the short groove on the left. Two metres right, the line of thin cracks proves interesting and sustained; Grub Steak (10m S 4a Clarke 6.6.16).

Additional info:

The approach to this area from the steep slopes above is intimidating and requires care. At low tide and calm seas a boulder hop from the north (Cape Cornwall) side may be preferable!

Carousel

Length/grade/stars: 18m S1 F5

Start location:

Twenty metres right (facing out) of the top of Gnome Garden a promontory runs out to the offshore square-topped pinnacle. Follow the promontory towards the pinnacle until stepped ledges on the left (facing out) lead down to the top of a short slabby ramp. Descend the ramp for a couple of metres, before stepping right (facing out) onto a ledge below a small prow, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse left (facing in) across a crack and continue along sloping footholds, descending slightly and moving along the barnacled footholds to better handholds. Move up and gain the ridge, and finish up the short corner.

Gnomenreigen

Length/grade/stars: 25m S

Start location:

Start as for Gnome Garden.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 14m Climb leftwards to reach the rib forming the left edge of the wall. Up this, mainly on its right side to the massive ledge.
2. 11m 4a Pull up a short steep wall and continue up the left-slanting crack in the left side of the wall taken by p2 of Gnome Garden.

Additional info:

Gnome Garden repeated, grade confirmed!

A Cheap Thrill

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Fifteen metres right (facing out) of the starting niche of Right Angle a down-climb (VD) or abseil down a low relief buttress gains barnacle level. Traverse right (facing in) for 17 metres to gain the left-hand of two left-trending grooves; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Gain the left-hand groove with difficulty and climb it to a bulge. Pull up rightwards to reach and follow a continuation groove to the top.

The Jitters

Length/grade/stars: 16m S1 F4

Start location:

Start 8 metres right of A Cheap Thrill across an awkward inlet (S) at a black rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the rib, then trend rightwards up the brown slab, then leftwards to finish at the starting niche of Right Angle.

Sayonara

Length/grade/stars: 24m S1 F4

Start location:

Start as for The Jitters.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse right around the black rib for 2 metres. Then follow the thin right-trending crack to the top of the brown slab. Reverse Right Angle for 5 metres to gain its starting niche.

Stone Drizzle

Length/grade/stars: 20m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Lang Lum Reek (CC Website!), at a line of thin cracks in the left side of a smooth streaked wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the thin cracks to a shallow porthole on the left at 7 metres. Step right and move up to a ledge, from where a blocky wall leads to the top.

Climbers: R Seymour, BJ Clarke

Cornish Cruncher

Length/grade/stars: 22m HVS

Start location:

Immediately right of Cheddar the fine golden wall is split by two cracks, start below the left-hand crack.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the left-hand crack, with strenuous moves through the notch in the overhang. Continue up easier ground to the top.

Additional info:

The name is of a particularly ferocious local cheese!

Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Gorgonzola

Length/grade/stars: 22m VS

Start location:

Start as for Cornish Cruncher.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the right-hand crack to easier ground and the top.

Snuffing Out the Candles

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Two hundred metres north (right, facing out) of the promontory containing The Fair Melusine etc is a headland graced by a steep dark wall, flanked on its right by slabs and overhangs. As the tip of the headland is approached keep right (facing out) above easy-angled slabs to a terrace below a broken upper tier of rock. A short scramble down leads to the apex of the sloping ledge below the cliff. Scramble down the sloping ledge rightwards (facing in), below the steep dark wall to barnacle level at a glass-smooth corner. Move around right for a further 5 metres to below an easy-angled groove, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the right side of the easy-angled groove. Step left and pull through the overhang via the short yellow groove to a gentle amble up the slabs.

Weathercock

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Start 6 metres around and right of Snuffing Out the Candles at a wide bay.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the left side of the bay for 5 metres, make a bold step left onto a slab and move up to a break and welcome gear. Pull onto the upper slab and finish up this.

Rolled Silver

Length/grade/stars: 9m S1 F2

Start location:

The next zawn north of the zawn containing The Fair Melusine etc has a fine, steep back wall with a slabby south-facing wall to its left. Scramble along the promontory above the slabby wall to within 15 metres of its end. Down to the left (facing out) two small but comfortable ledges jut out at barnacle level below a beautifully-crinkled grey wall. Gain the right-hand (facing out) jutting ledge by abseil or a down-climb (D).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the little rib, step left above the bulge and follow the right side of the edge on glorious holds.

Crinoline

Length/grade/stars: 10m S1 F3+

Start location:

Start 1 metres right of Rolled Silver on the adjacent jutting ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

Move up and rightwards to a tiny corner. Step right and follow the smooth wall to a bulge, go over this and continue to the top.

Palais

Length/grade/stars: 8m S0 F4

Start location:

Ten metres short of the trough in the promontory described in the approach to The Fair Melusine etc, descend granite steps down leftwards (facing out), then a ramp down rightwards. At the level of the large roof on the right down-climb a shallow groove on the left (facing out), with a heavily pocketed sidewall, to barnacle level.

Pitch descriptions:

Descend for a metre, step right (facing in) and pull up to a ledge below a clean-cut corner. Follow this to a sloping finish.

Sequentia

Length/grade/stars: 26m S2 F4+

Start location:

Start as for Palais.

Pitch descriptions:

Descend for a metre, then traverse awkwardly right for 8 metres to better footholds below a large open corner. Step left and follow the left rib of the large corner to a band of steeper rock. Traverse rightwards across the corner to gain small ledges. Move up and pull leftwards onto a slabby ramp which leads to the top.

Dark Side

Length/grade/stars: 14m VS

Start location:

Start on the red ledge, 3 metres right of the flake crack of Red Moon Arising at a right-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the crack to a niche on the edge of the wall. Make a difficult move onto the sloping ledge above and continue more easily to the top.

Samphire in Boots

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

On the other side of the buttress containing Red Moon Arising etc, is a golden south-facing wall. Start below the left edge of this wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb rightwards along the flake crack and move up to the break. Finish up the cracks above which prove distinctly unhelpful!

Thick Cut

Length/grade/stars: 10m S 4b

Start location:

Travers into Halldrine Cove proper along a good ledge, wave-washed from mid-tide onward (underneath Waxing, Waning etc) and over boulders at the back of the cove. A large break leads up and left from sea level, with a comfortable belay (thread round jammed block low down) about half way along under a short, steep corner. This point can also be accessed by a scramble over the top of the buttress and a traverse round and down into the break from the seaward end.

Pitch descriptions:

Pull into the corner which gives out onto a ledge on the right. Move up and left from this into a hand-sized crack above and climb this, surprisingly steeply, to the top. Belay on the large block.

The Matchbox

Date of ascent: 31/07/2016
Length/grade/stars: 5m HVS 5c
Climbers: RJ Seymour, JH Mann

Start location:

Facing west across the zawn toward the black wall of Lycanthrope etc. a hundred and fifty metres or so to the west. At the seaward end, immediately above the wave-washed platform, is an undercut, tank-shaped block.

Pitch descriptions:

The front of the block is undercut, but there is a decent flake near the seaward arête and some small cracks above and right. A contorted move to get established on the flake gives way to more reasonable moves up the hand-crack in the arête. Great.

Additional info:

It would be a great bouldering spot, except it you come off you’ll bounce and drop straight into the sea, hence rope!

Run with the Wolves

Date of ascent: 17/09/2016
Length/grade/stars: E5 6b/6c ***
Climbers: James Forbes

Start location:

1.5m left of Regans Regression

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the overhanging arête 1.5m left of Regans Regression, rock over to a rest below the roof large that extends rightwards. Utilising a paw shaped hold under the roof make a committing crucifix move to gain the bottom of the hanging arête. A gymnastic rock over onto the steep slab and follow the arête direct to the top.

Pebble Dash

Date of ascent: 25/08/2016
Length/grade/stars: 12m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke, JH Mann

Start location:

Start immediately right of the thin crack of Pebble Rebel (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wide crack to a ledge and finish up the rib on the right.

Additional info:

The pebble boulder has been removed by sea action. The thin crack and wide crack mentioned above are easily identified towards the left side of the wall.
The Matchbox repeated; grade confirmed! A micro-gem, quite serious, 2 stars!

Proper Pendeen

Date of ascent: 20/09/16
Length/grade/stars: 26m VD one star
Climbers: Andy March, Des Hanigan

Start location:

The route is on a buttress between Horn Zawn and Rip Tide Wall, although closer to the former. Approach down the broad grassy gully (as for Rip Tide Wall) but after a few metres bear right through a gap in the rocky ridge, to reach rock ledges which slope down to the right. Follow these to the edge of the cliff; the route is now visible on the right (facing out). Abseil to a large ledge which is just non-tidal but can be affected by swell at any tide. The best abseil anchor is up on the right (facing out) where there is a large chockstone in a wide chimney. (This abseil point can also be used for Horn Zawn, by abseiling off the other side.)

Pitch descriptions:

From the large ledge, start up the left side of the wall to a ledge on the right. Climb up and right, passing the base of a rockfall scar, until close to easy ground on the right. From here, climb straight up a prominent crack and step left to finish at the top of the buttress.

Additional info:

A worthwhile addition to the range of easier routes on the killas crags. Positive holds and good rock throughout. The chimney to the right can be climbed at a similar grade, although it’s a different style of climbing. Stay inside at the bulge for maximum fun. May be wet in places. (Pendeen Chimney 22m VD A March (solo) 20.9.16)

New Cove Unconquerable

Date of ascent: 08/10/16
Length/grade/stars: 30m E1 5b 1 star
Climbers: Andy March, Kass Gibson

Start location:

The east-facing wall of New Cove has a prominent right-slanting flake towards the seaward end, with some resemblance to its Stanage namesake. This flake is mentioned in the description of Zawn Alley Rumble; it is visible in the photo on page 166 of the guidebook, and can be seen from Bosigran! The sand in the cove is low at the time of writing, so it may not be possible to traverse in. It is possible to abseil from a large block on the edge of Trevowhan Zawn, but this is a bit too far seaward, and the abseil might end in the water. Instead, there are good anchors in a rock outcrop above the line of the flake, reached by an exposed scramble across grass from the right (facing in).

Pitch descriptions:

Bold, strenuous and varied climbing on a fine line. The bottom four metres of the flake appear to be permanently damp, smooth and slimy, so avoid this section by climbing easy rock to the left, then traverse right to a sloping ledge on the flake. Then climb the flake boldly (very large cam useful at first) until it ends at a small overhang. Continue straight up on good holds to a short wide crack which leads to a rock ledge. Finish carefully up steep grass, using the abseil rope if available, although it’s possible without.

Ruhemann’s Purple

Date of ascent: 05/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 30m E6 6b **
Climbers: Alexis Perry

Start location:

As for Saddle Tramp

Pitch descriptions:

This can’t really be a new route in a busy part of a busy cliff, yet there’s no record of it anywhere and it’s excellent so I’ll record it so other people might get on it and enjoy it. Basically, it tackles the thin line of weakness through the headwall halfway between Pump It Up and Saddle Tramp; underneath all the lichen is a brilliant stretch of technical climbing. Safe but run-out. Follow Saddle Tramp to the diagonal break, chuck in a bunch of gear then attack the sustained thin crack over the bulge and up the headwall with a fair load of difficulty until a small niche with a couple of flat holds. Pull up and right using a hidden flake to gain easier ground.

Additional info:

Tried to onsight but kept falling off so top-roped prior to successful ascent. All gear placed on lead. All necessary holds and gear are clear of lichen – please tread carefully.

The Precariat

Length/grade/stars: 22m E3 5c *

Start location:

The wall between Prommie Bastards and Bristletail Suicide.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb to a tiny overlap at 5m (good small cams) then make some precarious moves to the larger overlap. Climb this on good holds, but with limited protection, and finish easily

Additional info:

This route has missed the deadline for the new South Coast & Lizard guide; unfortunately the description refers to routes which are only described in that guide , so they won’t make sense until it appears. Top roped it first.

Swing to the Right

Length/grade/stars: 2m S

Pitch descriptions:

This is just a variation on Socialist Saunter. Climb that route for 5m, swing right on huge flakes, and finish easily up the slab.

Thoroughbred Variation Start

Date of ascent: 24/07/17
Length/grade/stars: 22m E1 5b
Climbers: Andy March, Sara Scaife

Start location:

Start just right of Gritstone Delinquent.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a crack in the slab, directly below the hanging block, until a difficult move right can be made into the crack of the parent route. Finish up this.

Additional info:

Avoids the desperate start of the original route, thus giving a more balanced and sustained outing.

When in Rome

Date of ascent: 27/08/2017
Length/grade/stars: 15m HS 4b
Climbers: Matt George, Laura Packford

Start location:

In the Hadrian’s Wall section of Land’s End. The route climbs the chimney left of the route Hadrian’s Wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Squeeze up the chimney which leads to a few tricky moves to exit.

Comment

At crag today 8/3/2018, this seems to have fallen into the cove, large sandy weetabix scar and debris in bottom of the cove.

Halldrine Cove

Intro

11 VD
14-Apr-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
One hundred metres across the cove from the shady wall containing Red Moon Arising etc (CC Website) and 50 metres beyond the promontory containing Thick Cut (CC Website) is a large, red/grey slab, with a short attractive wall to its left. Gained by following the rim of the cove to the top of the slab and a gearing up spot by an outcrop above a belt of slabs leading down to sea level. Scramble halfway down the belt of slabs to a small sidewall on the left which forms the back of the short, attractive wall. Abseil down this wall to ledges. It is possible to scramble in from the left (facing in) but is perennially greasy and seriously threatened by heavy swell! The short wall has a beautiful, but impossible? sea-carved bulge on its left, and a central, right-to-left, black and white vein. Start below this vein. Climb the vein leftwards to the top, nice climbing!

Halldrine Cove

On With the Motley

40 D
14-Apr-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Intro. Climb the grey, rightwards-slanting gangway, first on its right, then on its left side, until it fades. Move leftwards and up through small overlaps before continuing direct to gain a large block and ancient stone wall at the top and a motley collection of belays!

Halldrine Cove

Strike the Right Note

16m VS 5a
23-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Intro. Climb up just left of Intro to half-height. Cross rightwards across the grey streak to reach a jug in the middle of the wall. Continue rightwards along the thin rising crack, to gain a right-slanting break which leads awkwardly to the top. Sustained and nicely technical, with spaced protection!

Halldrine Cove

Peregrino

45m VD
23-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres below On With the Motley, at the foot of a parallel right-slanting gangway. Climb the gangway to a bulge and continue up the narrow gangway on the right for a few metres until it fades. Climb the wall on the left to a large ledge. Step left and follow the upper slab until 4 metres short of the grass, where a break on the left allows the finish of On With the Motley to be gained and followed to the block.

Halldrine Cove

Much

15m S 4a
25-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately left of Wenlock (CC Website!). Climb a short groove and make an awkward move into an overhung niche. Pull through the bulge and amble up the slab to block belays.

Halldrine Cove

Mynd

16m VD
25-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Wenlock. Trend rightwards past a cut-out and follow the slim groove to a rounded bulge. Overcome this and follow the slabby rib to block belays.

Halldrine Cove

Left Thrope

11m VS 4b
25-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start below the main V-groove of Lycanthrope (CC Website!), gained by a scramble from the left (facing in). Handy at high tide or heavy swell, as was the case on this occasion! Climb the V-groove for 3 metres, then follow the dark slabby wall forming the left side of the V-groove boldly to a break and the top. The slabby wall forming the right side of the Lycanthrope V-groove gives, Thrope Right (11m S 4a Clarke 25.5.18).

Halldrine Cove

Pendragon

12m S 4a
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Directly opposite across the cove from the tower containing the beginners’ routes, on the NE flank of the Bosigran headland are two buttresses, one at sea level and the other a short distance directly above. These are sheltered from the South-Westerlies are gained by contouring leftwards (facing out) across the side of Halldrine Cove aiming for a conspicuous flat-topped, ochre-coloured pinnacle (the summit of the lower buttress!). For the first route, abseil down the gully immediately left (facing out) of the pinnacle to small ledges 5m above high tide level and below a red wall. Follow the holds rightwards up and across the red wall and up to easier ground.

Halldrine Cove

Uther Joy

11m D
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twenty-five metres right (facing in) of Pendragon is an attractive golden/black slabby wall. Gain this by abseil or a down climb (M) to its right (facing out). Follow the holds rightwards up the slabby wall. DWS grade F2 S1!

Halldrine Cove

Ygraine

14m S 4a
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Uther Joy. Climb Uther Joy for 3 metres then follow the shelving gangway rightwards until just before it ends, where a long step up left gains the top.

Halldrine Cove

Percival

14m VD
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Immediately above the col behind the pinnacle is the upper buttress. It has a dark slab on its left, central grooves and a prow to its right. Start below the dark slab. Climb the centre of the slab, finishing just left of the capping block. Starting at the same place, the right-hand line, keeping just left of the bounding corner proves bold; Amfortas (15m HS 4b Clarke 26.5.2018). Whilst the bounding corner gives Titurel (15m S Clarke 26.5.2018).

Halldrine Cove

Merlin

16m VD
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start below the right-bounding corner of the dark slab (Titurel). Trend rightwards to below a steep short corner, swing leftwards across the impending wall to a ledge. Follow the groove above to gain a fine ledge and a wizard’s hat-shaped belay block.

Halldrine Cove

Wizard’s Groove

16m S 4a
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres right of Merlin at a dark gully immediately left of the prow. Climb the left side of the gully and pull over the bulge. Step right and follow the main groove to reach the wizard’s hat ledgoe.

Halldrine Cove

The Wizard’s Hat

15m S 4a
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Merlin below a dark gully just left of the prow. Climb the left side of the gully, pull through the bulge and continue up the groove to reach the wizard’s hat belay ledge.

Halldrine Cove

Y Draig Goch

20m VS 4c
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for the Wizard’s Hat. Climb the left side of the gully to the bulge. Stride rightwards across the gully and pull onto the prow. Move up and make an interesting pull over the small roof. Follow the ridge to the top in a fine position.

Halldrine Cove

Wolfram

14m S 4a
26-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Seventy metres above the buttress containing Percival etc, is a tower with a slabby left flank. Start below this flank below a thin crack. Gain and climb the thin crack, trend left and finish up a left-facing corner. Interesting climbing on sharp crystalline granite!

Halldrine Cove

Flower Maidens

14m S 4a
27-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twenty metres right (facing out) of the ochre-coloured pinnacle (Pendragon etc) is an attractive rib. Scramble down a ramp to reach fluorescent green ledges well above sea level. Gain the V-groove in the rib and follow it to its sloping roof. Step left around the edge and climb the fine wall to the top. Scramble up to block belays.

Halldrine Cove

The Quest

25m VD
27-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Y Draig Goch. Make a steep pull up the edge (above a big drop!), and tiptoe right along a narrow gangway, before stepping down onto the large slab overlooking a zawn. From the top of the slab climb cracks on the left and easier ground to the top. Low on technicality, big on atmosphere!

Halldrine Cove

Afterglow

12m VD
27-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
The promontory containing Uther Joy etc has a hidden zawn on its left (facing out). The zawn’s right wall is split by a wide ramp, gained by a short abseil or a steep down-climb (S). Walking 10 metres seaward down the ramp reaches three small black-coated blocks. Descend leftwards (facing out) from here to sea level. Traverse rightwards (facing in) along a line of thin flakes to gain a left-slanting groove, up this to regain the ramp. DWS grade F3 S1.

Halldrine Cove

Klingsor’s Castle

11m VD 4b
27-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twelve metres up the ramp from the start of Afterglow is the ramp’s apex, start here. Descend to the right and move left into an overhung niche below a large rock scar. Haul out of the niche and avoid the rock scar by stepping right and following a rib on huge holds to the top.

Halldrine Cove

Lancelot

15m VS 4c
28-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Eight metres right (facing out) of the ochre-coloured, flat-topped pinnacle (Pendragon etc); is a fine two tier wall. Access (mid tide and below and calm seas!), is by abseil or scrambling down as for Flower Maidens then moving leftwards (facing out). Start towards the left end of the wall, just right of twin, thin cracks and below a rightwards-curving flake. Gain and follow the flake and move up to a ledge. Follow the dark corner on the left to easier ground.

Halldrine Cove

Gawain

20m VS 4c
28-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Lancelot. Climb the shallow groove and move up onto a gangway. Follow this up leftwards until a precarious move gains a wide ramp. Move up the corner on the left, until a finger traverse right gains the superb finishing flakes. Fine climbing throughout!

Halldrine Cove

Guinevere

16m HS 4b
28-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Gawain at a right-slanting crack. Start the crack awkwardly, then more easily to the ramp and the juggy cracks above.

Halldrine Cove

Mont Salvat

17m S
28-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Belay at the start of Afterglow. Facing in, traverse leftwards around the promontory at barnacle level (mid tide and below and calm seas) to gain an optional stance below a steep corner which leads to the top.

Halldrine Cove

Mordaunt

10m VS 4c
28-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Forty metres West (towards Bosigran) from Mont Salvat is another hidden zawn with a characteristic steep wall on its right (facing out) rising above a wide ramp. Start towards the right side of this wall, just left of a black corner. Access is by a scramble down the wide ramp. Follow the seam, small ledges and flakes somewhat precariously and boldly across the wall.

Botallack Head Zawn

The Great Escape

37m HVS 4c ☆
05-Jul-2018, Andy March, Sara Scaife, Chris Griffiths
Good climbing on excellent rock, with a bold start. Start just right of The Scrubs, in the right-hand of the two scoops. Climb the right edge of the right-hand scoop, then continue direct, steeply at first, to a good letter-box slot at 10 metres (first gear – phew!) Continue straight up until a couple of metres below the big break of The Dungeon, then head left up cracks and slabs, on lovely rough rock, until it becomes vegetated. Step right into the final short chimney of The Dungeon.

Aire Point

Airefix

7m HVS 5c ☆
09-Jul-2018, Rob Seymour
A scale model rock climb. Borderline 5b/5c? Good moves. Arguably a boulder problem but if you come off you will go 20 metres to the bottom of the crag. Page 220 of the CC’s 2016 Cornwall Bosigran and the North Coast guidebook refers to “a recess flanked on its left by a lichen-covered tower” (near the top of Night Flight). Start in this recess on the right-hand side of the lichen-covered tower and below a thin crack that twists right to end half-way up the tower. Step down and left from the recess to gain and climb the thin crack. Attain a standing position in the crack with assistance from a thin, crimpy vein slanting up and left from the end of the crack. A tenuous move right leads to the crack/groove which is then climbed directly to finish. Adequately protected with wires and small cams. One fall on FA, RJ Seymour, BJ Clarke 9.7.18 This crag is properly Creagolls (spelling uncertain) not Aire Point which lies some hundreds of metres to the south near John Wayne Memorial Crag.

Aire Point

Route Comment: Airefix

01-Jan-1970,
Note about Aire Point being further south than the crag so named in the guidebook is correct. The crag is actually Carn Creagle as shown on all large scale OS maps from the late 1870s until about 1990.

Bosigran

OMP

10m E3 6a
15-Jul-2018, Will hornby, B Peters
A short but good independent finish to “Fungus” and “Poison Ivy”. Climb the hairline crack from several metres right of the final pitch of “Simon”. Thin moves and slim jams.

Bosigran > Landward Cliff

Route Comment: OMP

01-Jan-1970,
The steep, thin crack forming this pitch is above the recess a couple of metres left of the top pitch of “Simon” not several metres right, which would be in thin air.

Halldrine Cove

The Long Mirror

43m VD
06-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5m below and right of Peregrino below a long groove defining the left side of the main overlap of the slab. From the spike belay, climb the long groove past three bulges to within 4 metres of the topping grass. A traverse left around two ribs gains the finish of On With the Motley etc, follow this to the large block.

Halldrine Cove

Swordstone

20m HS 4b
07-Jul-2018, bj Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Guinevere below the attractive main arête of the ochre-coloured pinnacle. Gain and follow the fine flakes in the arête to a ledge. Step left and make a steep pull up, before moving right and gaining the summit via its front face.

Halldrine Cove

Usurper

15m S
07-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Pendragon. Follow a lower line of holds diagonally rightwards to finish up the right-slanting slabby groove.

Halldrine Cove

Moon Rust

12m HS 4c
11-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre left of Red Moon Arising. Climb the fierce little wall to a ledge. Continue up the thin, left-slanting crack via a niche to the top.

Halldrine Cove

Sea-Life

20m S
14-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Approach as for Thick Cut (CC Web), but continue to scramble down the right flank (facing out) of the lower buttress to barnacle level, belay here. Descend further and traverse right (facing in) along a sloping ledge to below a wide scoop just right of centre on the lower buttress. Make slippery moves into the scoop and follow its left side to easier ground. Amble up, and finish up the pleasant upper slab.

Halldrine Cove

Bastille

9m VS 4b
14-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of Thick Cut. Move left up the ramp for 2 metres, then climb the left side of the arête, utilizing the left-slanting black vein near the top to access the upper slab to finish. A fine little pitch.

Halldrine Cove

Kurwenal

14m VS 4c
14-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Guinevere at an innocuous-looking groove. Climb the groove with interest and layback the left side of the hanging block above.

Halldrine Cove

Bedevere

18m HS 4c
14-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Guinevere. Complete the awkward start to Guinevere, then step left and move quickly upwards using the short positive crack. Continue up the cracks above to gain the wide ramp. Climb the wide, main, right-slanting crack in the upper wall and finish leftwards.

Trevowhan Cliff > Carn Fran-kas

33 Years Later

20m E1 5b ☆
30-Jul-2018, Matt George and Dan Morrell
On the opposite (west) side of the ridge to Hidden Cornwall, there is an obvious corner bounding the right edge of the slab. Climb the corner before traverse left, using a horizontal break, until below the right side of the block that overhangs the top of the crag. Make tenuous moves using edges and horizontal breaks to mantle onto a ledge to the right of the overhanging block. Finish easily.

Halldrine Cove

Froissart

7m HS 4b
15-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twenty metres left (facing in) of Flower Maidens is a beautiful inlet whose far (west-facing) wall is marked by a black vein and thin horizontal breaks. Start on a square-cut ledge (awash at high tide!), on the left of the wall, gained by a short abseil or down-climbing the black vein (S). Reverse mantelshelf off the ledge, and step right 1 metre. Climb the wall above using the horizontals. DWS grade: S0 F4.

Halldrine Cove

Kundry’s Quandary

20m HS 4b
15-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres left of Flower Maidens where two short, steep walls guard a scoop with an ochre-coloured slab in its right-hand side. Overcome the two walls and exit the scoop rightwards. Continue up the right-slanting groove over waves of granite until it disappears. Step up left and scramble up for 20 metres to block belays.

Halldrine Cove

Morgana

16m HS 4b
15-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres right of Kundry’s Quandary at a black arête riven by a flake crack. Start steeply and follow the flake crack to a large ledge. Follow the black vein steeply rightwards (care with loose holds!) and scramble up to block belays.

Halldrine Cove

King Mark’s Crack

15m VD
16-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Five metres left of Kundry’s Quandary this section of cliff ends at an attractive slab with a right-to-left diagonal crack; start below this crack. Gain and follow the diagonal crack to the top. Starting as for King Mark’s Crack, the slab just left, finishing up the groove on the left gives; Tristan ( 17m S Clarke 16.7.18).

Halldrine Cove

Isolde

16m VS 4c
16-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of King Mark’s Crack. Pull up the steep wall via the right-slanting crack, step left and follow the fine slab direct, finishing rightwards up a ramp. A tricky start and sparse protection above!

Halldrine Cove

Brangane

14m S 4a
16-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Isolde at twin, thin cracks. Climb the cracks and steep corner above to juggy ground.

Halldrine Cove

The Witch of Endor

16m HS 4b
16-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Kundry’s Quandary at a wide cleft. Move up the cleft and make interesting moves into the steep little groove directly above. Up this, move left crossing Kundry’s Quandary and finish daintily up the red rib.

Halldrine Cove

On the Lists

8m VD
17-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Directly below The Witch of Endor is a short (8 metres), but fine wall rising from a mid tide ledge. The wall is riven by three cracks. The left corner of the wall and the seam above is On the Lists (VD). The left-hand and central cracks are Ladies Favor 1 and Ladies Favor 2, both VD. The attractive rib just right of the central crack is the very pleasant SK’s Pillar (S 4a). The perennially wet right-hand crack of the wall was descended at VD. All routes FA BJ Clarke (solo) 17/07/2018.

Halldrine Cove

Jousting Tramlines

25m D
17-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Merlin. Follow the ramp diagonally rightwards with increasing exposure. Traverse around the prow of Y Draig Goch and finish rightwards up the cracks and walls.

Gurnard’s Head Area

A Cute Angle

20m VD
25-Jul-2018, Paul Headland, Kate Headland
Gurnards Head, North Coast Guide, page 51 Approach: As for right angle cliff A cute angle, VD, Paul Headland, Kate Headland, 25/07/18 P1, As for right angle. P2, 20m From the right hand end of the belay ledge climb the thin crack to the open corner, careful of loose rock near the top. A useful escape when the Right Angle belay is busy.

Gurnard’s Head Area

To be decided

30m VS 4c ☆☆
21-Apr-2019, Diccon Proctor
This route may very likely to have been climbed before because it is such an obvious line but I can’t find a reference to it in the latest CC guidebook or my old Bosigran one from 1991. It on the western side of the seaward end of Gurnards Head, about 100m down from the concrete steps of the old coastguard lookout. It’s a very obvious vertical crackline leading to the capping roof of a tower which you can bypass on the right, see attached photos. It felt about VS 4c to me and I can send further details but I thought it best to check with you first to see if it’s already been claimed. best regards Diccon Proctor.

Bosigran Ridge Area

Arêtenophobia

16m E2 5c ☆☆
27-Sep-2020, John Spear, Tom Wright
The bent arête 2m to the right of The Plaque, between La Plaque Direct and Plaque Pitch. Start underneath the downward pointing flake, climb the arête in its entirety, via the flake and cracks to the left of the arête, finishing left on steep jugs

Kenidjack Cliffs

Nightmares of the Kelp Forest

8m f7A+ ☆☆☆
22-Oct-2020, Alexis Perry
The left hand of the big lines on the obvious overhanging wall in Porth Ledden, blatant from the slipway. Start 2 m right of the chimney and go pretty much straight to the top. This is proper highball terrain. FA was ground up, using 2 pads and no spotters…such is the life of the lonely!

Kenidjack Cliffs

John Stille

4m f7A+ ☆☆
17-Oct-2020, Alexis Perry
Takes the blunt overhanging arête 10 metres beyond Porth Ledden’s Nightmares of the Kelp Forest wall from a sit start.

Kenidjack Cliffs

Penny for the Guy

4m f6C+ ☆
19-Oct-2020, Alexis Perry
Climbs the blunt black arête with a large pale scar on its left hand side, found about 2 bays west of the bottom of the Porth Ledden descent ramp. Sit start, then entertaining slapping to gain the obvious shelf, and an interesting move to get stood on it.

Sennen: Pedn-men-du > Coastguard Face

Old Men’s Workings

35m HS 4b
14-May-2017, Sam Salmon, Mick Crayton
The route is at the extreme right end of the crag, in the middle of the broken ground to the right of Hayloft Gully. Roughly midway between this and the ‘squeeze’ at the bottom of the Ashcan Gully easy way down, is a slab with a distinctive right-facing flake and a looming green tower above and to the right. Start below the slab.

1. 22m, 4b. Move easily up to the foot of the slab, then climb it using the right-facing flake until a tricky, delicate move up and left gains a large rounded black hold; continue more easily to grassy ledges.
2. 13m, 4a. Move up to the slab above and climb it by the crack at its left edge. There are a number of variants on the slab to the right of the crack; they are less well-protected and have all been climbed before.

Bosigran > Bosigran Main Face

Written in the cards

8m E4 6b
03-Aug-2023, Ed Southwood
Climbs the thin black crack to the ledge between the Lurch and Ron’s route in Raven Wall Area. Start to the left Ron’s route. Boulder up the overhanging arête to a sidepull jug. From place a wire in the crack above (about a size 3 rock)*. Move up over the bulge with help from holds to the left of the crack. Named after a positive tarot card reading done the night before. Top-rope inspection before leading. *This wire was pre-placed for the lead. It’s not really an indication of how difficult it is to place, it’s more to do with not wanting a trip to A&E during the family meet.